Bobbin lace
Bobbin lace
c.1660-1707
linen
- Place made
- Rutland, England
- Geographical location
- East Midlands
- Medium
- linen
- Dimensions
- 42.0 x 37.0 x 3.4 (frame)
- Credit line
- Gift of Diana Tostevin 2023
- Accession number
- 20233A12
- Signature and date
- Not signed. Not dated.
- Provenance
- Created by Elizabeth Bowcock (?), England, c.1660-1707; thence by descent to Diana Tostevin; dontated to the Art Gallery of South Australia, Adelaide, 2023.
- Collection area
- European decorative arts
- Image credit
- Photos: Stewart Adams
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This lacework is thought to have been made by the great-great-grandmother of Jane Judd (1739-1796), whose Quilt [broderies Perse] is held in the Art Gallery of South Australia's collection.
A piece of paper with two hand written notes accompany the lace. The first note is written by Jane Judd and reads, "A piece of Point worked by my greatgreat Grandmother when she was a Hundred years old without Shuttles, J. Judd." A later addition in another hand reads, "In the Reign of James the Second The above old Lady work’d the Band for her Son who was a Judge and presented it to him when he was [upon?] the Circuit in Rutlandshire."
These hand-written records provide us with clues about the maker of the lace. Family heirlooms such as this lace are often passed from mother to daughter. Tracing back Jane Judd's maternal family tree her great-great grandmother was Elizabeth Bowcock (c.1656-1707). We know that Elizabeth Bowcock lived in the East Midlands in England, but little more is known of her. Research to verify the maker of the lace is ongoing.
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This bobbin lace is thought to have been made in the East Midlands in England in the late seventeenth century. Bobbin laces are made by braiding and twisting fine linen threads together and is precise and time-consuming work.
During the 17th century the finest lace in Europe originated in Italy and Flanders and France. Lace was hugely popular in European courts, prompting the establishment of expansive lace industries. The first lace makers in England are thought to have been people displaced by unrest in France and Flanders, and much of the early lace produced in the British Midlands copied the Flemish style. Until the production of lace began to be automated through machine processes in the early nineteenth century, it remained extremely expensive and signalled the wealth and power of the individual who wore it.
In the seventeenth century men and women wore lace as collars, cuffs, and garters. It is thought that this lace may have been worn by a judge – perhaps as part of the ceremonial attire worn by circuit judges which includes a full wig, white gloves and a lace jabot (cravat/necktie).